Somewhere between a vegetable-ashed, Loire Valley, bloomy rind and a Piedmontese Robiola, these beauties pack as much flavor onto a cheeseboard as they do appearance. Dusted in vegetable ash before developing a doughy, wrinkled rind, the pasteurized cow milk begins tangy, bright and chalky, but continuously breaks down from week to week into a slow, oozing paste with notes of butter-roasted mushroom and toasted almond.